Відео

Hmmmm, I thought titanium heaters are grounded back through their own titanium cases thus doing the same thing as a separate titanium probe. 🤔 Not sure where I heard this so I guess it’s more of a question than a statement. Also, controllers are a great idea. I use a Hydros controller for heater, PH reading, CO2 control, ATO, and lights. I realize most people won’t be doing that with their tanks but a standalone heater controller should be on every tank at minimum.

Got back into the hobby a few months ago. I saw the test strips and figured that was a good way to get me back in when it came to testing. For the most part, it seemed that the testing strips were giving me the information I needed and I acted accordingly. Unfortunately, for some reason, I can't keep cherry shrimp alive for a few weeks at most. I thought it was just because the cherry shrimp enclosure was completely different than a standard fish tank and it was solely because of my lack of experience/ knowledge of shrimp enclosures on my part. But because of this video, I sent for an API master kit like I used to use back in the day. I appreciate the information you gave in this video because it helped me realize that the test strips shouldn't be my go-to, but rather than a supplement to keeping my aquariums healthy. 👍🏽

How do I watch one of your videos, this morning, how you hate UGFs and then an hour later I watch another video how you say UGFs are awesome?

I had a couple of power outages last weekend. My Fluval 3.0 just didn't come back on until I went back to the app and just clicked on it. It instantly came back on and remembered where it was supposed to be.

Great video, thank you. You should remove that dirty tank that is hanging off the edge of that stand. It takes away from your professionalism and doesn't look great in your video background.

It's not the heat that's hard in hot climate it's the humidity that is the real fun part.

I'm very likely in the more extreme end of a bias towards "smart" or automated aquarium equipment. I find many aspects like monitoring devices, testing probes, and notifications to be of extreme value. But, it comes at a cost. Both the monetary value, and time spent maintaining that equipment such as re-pairing a device to the network or calibrating probes and dosing heads. Automating an aquarium doesn't remove good maintenance, it shifts that workload to other tasks. Use something like an auto-water-change and it greatly extends the duration between manual water changes in a safe and effective way. However, you now have to maintain the dosing system or pumps executing it, and ensure you have a clean water source when your not there. And it's no substitute for regular testing. But I'd rather maintain a pump, than carry buckets... And while you may be thinking "that's just more things that can break". It's only partly true. If you embrace automation, you can add redundancy which adds resiliency to the aquarium. Such as using probes to monitor and continually test the tank. Some of which can be configured to turn devices on and off, if desired. Or, simply alert you via text or email when something is wrong, so the user can act. Would you rather know your heater is stuck-on 10 minutes into it failing, or would you prefer to walk in and learn the hard way hours or days later? In this case, your trading minor additional maintenance for peace of mind and additional awareness. Finally, it's ideal for performing tasks when you're simply not there. Things like auto-feeders, lighting schedules, and dosing regimes can be detrimental if used improperly or misunderstood. But, if used well, they can add a level of consistency beyond a typical aquarist. Something as simple as a timer takes a mediocre aquarist, and makes that action very reliable. However, it's something that only make sense for hobbyists who want to invest resources into there aquarium. The more expensive an aquarium set-up becomes, the more attractive automation looks. And the fewer aquariums (or combined volumes of water) a hobbyist has, the more feasible the cost and set-up of such automation. Scaling automation on a connected (plumbed together) system is easy. But, scaling it on dozens of individual tanks is cost prohibitive. Personally, I don't have multiple tanks. I learned a long time ago, I have the personal motivation to take care of one aquarium very well. Or, I tend to care for multiple tanks mediocre or poorly. So, I've happily traded putting money into one modestly large aquarium, rather than dozens of smaller ones. In my scenario, automation makes perfect sense. It's safeguarding my only aquarium system, spreading out the overall maintenance on the system into more manageable bites, and I only have to purchase one set of equipment instead of trying to figure out how to cover multiple tanks with redundant purchases. In my case, I very much appreciate having multiple layers of automation through both Apps and an aquarium controller.

Now that I have used the full sized Fluval plant 3.0 and know that it has physical buttons and can be controlled by a smart plug if you app dies i don't have many issues with it until recently I had only used the Fluval nano plant that can only be controlled by the app so I had assumed the full ones were the same. thanks Bentley I probably wouldn't have looked any further into them without you talking about them being your favorite ( Would still prefer to have full physical controls and a app ) great video as always

The more moving parts, the more opportunity for failure. I personally don't want smart tech in my aquarium, things go wrong far too often for me to be comfortable with that.

Your videos are the first thing I watch

Bentley, what type of Angelfish are in the aquarium behind Robbz? Please? They are exquisite.

Look at how gorgeous those tanks are in the background! 😊

I feel like the cons for the Sump version can be addressed EXCEPT for the price. Firstly while you traditionally run them via airstones, they can also be run by Wave makers, which reduces the noise significantly. Secondly why yes they do no mechanical filtration by themselves, you cam combine them with another form of filtration to fix that. Most obvious of these is an UGF, a filter sock OR in Sumps with s bend designs (rather then drilled holes) the sponge required to stop the K1 escaping the fluidized chamber Really though you are correct...like ANY sump they are only for large tanks with either monster fish OR overstocked African cichlids.

Hi! Realize this is older video but I just came across it. Long term do you think the self cleaning function of the K1 would change the results in a significant manner after the bright water gets clogged? Thanks love your videos

Have you ever considered just loading a canister filter with clean lava rock and adding it to an established tank with fish? While I'm not a biologist, it just seems logical that the porosity of the lava rock would lend itself to provide the anoxic conditions that the bacteria you want to cultivate. Further, the constant flow provided by the canister filter would maintain the high nitrate environment the bacteria need to thrive. Back in the 1990s, there were some articles in the hobbyist magazines of the day discussing anoxic bacteria in aquaria and how they might be able to lower the nitrate levels. I believe that it was postulated that lava rocks in a canister filter might be a possible approach, but at the time cannisters filters were expensive and beyond the means of most aquarists. Also, in the 2000s, the deBryn filter (an air driven wet-dry filter mounted inside the aquarium) was mentioned for use in tanks with larger young killifish populations to maintain high water quality and decreasing the need for frequent water changes.

I just bought a 55 gallon fish thank And it came with this light. I do not have plants in it right now All I was planning on getting the plants in 2 weeks. The only thing I have in the fish tank is 6 small African in cichlids What lights do you recommend? This is my first fish tank.

They are actually the best I’ve used and I tried them all, especially when u have goldfish , high bio load , under gravel def out competes, I think they couldn’t make more money off them, once set up they last for years . 💭🧐

The only anoxic system I ever created was a reef tank. The main tank fed to a 29 gallon sump with about 12" of sand, including bristle worms for sand stirring. If I were to try to reproduce that with freshwater, I'd fill a 29 gallon tank with 12" of sand (or Safe T Zorb), add some porous rock on top (like reef rock), add a power head for flow, add some ramshorn and Malaysian trump snails, along with a few fish. No plants. Just feed and see if nitrate builds up.

Thank you for addressing algae bloom!

Really bummed your first go round with the anoxic just didn't take. I have six and am enjoying them immensely. Leaving out the fact as you mentioned in your last video that I'm running full plants and REALLY never gave the anoxic system a shot as a stand alone filter. Very happy to see you rolling this experiment as a stand alone so we can all see this works or isn't as magical as I think lol. I'll definitely stay tuned!

Qualty control or bad design....maybe both? My concern over the design from the beginning was snails and debris causing issues. The outer casing allowing water flow is a good idea in theory, but real life application seemed to me was just going to cause problems. One more thing to take apart and clean...or in all honesty put off and forget about. 🤔🙄 Had I been new to the hobby, I would have bought into it without thought, just like I did with the Coop's sponge filters. Again, a sponge design that in theory sounded great...less cleaning! Until you lift them even the slightest and half of 3 months or more of gunk floods your tank. Tried the bag method....Has anyone besides me tried to stick a plastic bag in an aquarium full of guppies in an attempt to "capture the debris the filter is suppose to hold on to to begin with? It was ridiculous!! Lol. Almost as ridiculious as how long it took me to actually consider why I wasnt offended by that suggested "fix" to begin with. I will keep the bases in hopes that one day Cory will have an "epiphany" that finer sponges may be "easier" to deal with or at the very least offer normal replacement sponges for those of us who want them.

I have played with plenums and tried to make it work. If it does work, it doesn't use enough nitrate to make a difference. Good luck, though.

For medicated fish food I used ron’s Cichlids medicated fish food. It’s really good stuff. It’s not something that you can just give your fish. You have to prepare it and then you also have to refrigerate it, but it was great and it worked……I also use brain shrimp regularly … then I get really crazy and I mix up in a coffee grinder chlorella powder, sara fry food, rice bran, sera Immune pro, Black Soldier Fly Larvae. The reason I do this in the coffee grinder is because I put these in my auto feeders for all of my fish tanks. Black Soldier Fly Larvae has a lot of oil so you do need to add more of the algae powder and I also have been known to throw in dried egg shells to absorb some of the oils so they don’t clump up so much and then of course the other fish foods help…..anyone reading this probably thinks I am completely insane, but this is really good fish food and fish Love it, it’s really super cheap believe it or not…..

Here’s what I don’t understand: if you need oxygenated water to support animal life, how could that water then be used for anoxic denitrification?

If you want more flow, it's easy to tee in another air line, and put another sponge filter in at the other end of the tank. I often have several bubbling away, ready to be moved to a new tank as a pre-seasoned filter.

Mmmmmmm That's some nice, thick, dinge. Does anyone else enjoy the aroma of filter bac? It reminds me of healthy garden soil, pulling weeds, and seeing tomato vines thrive

so how are you going to understand, was the water filtered by anoxic layer or by sponge filter?

Loving this experiment thanks:) And game show prize model hand move for the filter gunk addition was perfect!

Will be interesting to see this project progress. I was, for a while, intrigued by the anoxic filter idea, but opted for dirted deepsand largely because of the simplicity of not having any moving parts to maintain. Also, on closer study of Novak's explanations of anoxic filtration, he seemed to do a lot of rambling with scientific terms thrown in at random and in ways that appeared inaccurate to the meaning of those terms... This caused Novak's explanation of the process to lose legitimacy for me. He also had plants in all his tanks... During the experiment, it may also be worth considering if any potential denitrification is taking place by other processes such as assimilatory denitrification. Looking forward to your 'plantless' experiment 👍

I no longer use strips or liquid PH testing methods. They are highly inaccurate. Invest in a decent PH meter and keep it calibrated and take the guess work out of PH testing

Try ash

My tap water here in Wichita Kansas has a PH of 8.0. It's basically liquid rock. I'm old school and have been using undergravel filters for 36 years now. Looking forward to the results of this test.

bro I have 2 tanks on anoxic plenums and I havent done a single thing besides top offs. the pull of the water helps the roots. all of them are white and to the bottom. the fish food usually has potash in it. calcium and magnesium I get from shrimp additives to my water. Im telling you this style worked for me. anoxic filtration changed the game on my tanks. I have about 25 green neons, 18 guppies, 6 Amanos, countless cherry shrimp all in a 30 gallon. no issues. I call it my death tank experiment. theory would have you believe all the fish and shrimp would be dead by now. also have like 20 assassin snails somewhere in the tank

Maybe run an internal polishing filter in the anoxic tank to keep it clear?

There’s no way you’re going to get to 400ppm nitrate even without anoxic bacteria. Algae is going to eat that nitrate well before you get there.

Just like everybody else who's tried anoxic filtration without plants your having zero success. I predict you will now be cycled with aerobic bacteria and your nitrates will stay put and not drop at all.theres a reason charlatans aren't providing data

Hey Bro! Been keeping up on your experiment. Ive been looking over my Uncles GROSSLY overstocked 200 gallon pond. Water tests stayed at 0 NH3, 0 NO2, and 80ppm NO3, a few years ago I built a bucket filter, It did clean up the water. That pond gets very little water changes due to the fact Uncle hates wasting water. I did however plumb the filter so it would accept a garden hose to water his plants he's slowly warmed up to water changes but still very few. I decided one day (7 months ago) to plop a big bag of kitty litter along with another bag with carbon purigen and GFO in it ( I decided on GFO due to 4 ppm's of phosphate. Left bag in for 3months and removed it so now it's just kitty litter in it.) It barely fit. The 5 gallon bucket filter has 1 course sponge and 2 medium sponges along with the BCB bag almost the size of a volley ball.. I tested the water 2 weeks ago 0 nh3-0 no2 -40ppm NO3, Phosphates 2ppm. Mind you this 200 gallon pond has 7 12" Koi, and a crap load of gold fish. I'm planning on building a bog filter on the lower half of a 50 gallon drum and dropping another 5 baskets of BCB's with the extra room. I'm sold. I also have a Fluval spec 5 with 6 mountain minnows, no plants yet with full on snap together wall to wall plenum, 2 inches of litter. had that set up for 1.5 years zero ppm all across and zero phosphates. Good Luck!

I had issues with KH and PH at first, it took several months of adding cuttlebone to the tank for it to start rising. I use a cannister in tandem too. But agree a sponge is best for this experiment. My nitrates are low but not zero. I expect it will take a few more months. But plant growth has been great.

well I am a grandpa and I love those filters but I have been switching to sponge just because of convenience and less waist buying filter floss can get costly if you have a lot of filters and its a waist .. I will use the box filter but I am starting to prefer the sponge filter

I planted plants about a week ago in my 20 long and all of the plants look awful. Lots of brown and decay. Would you recommend doing your 20 long settings or something more intense to bring them back?

Great Job Bentley! Love this detail!!

where do you get the florin laterite ball? I tried searching and can't find any in the US.

Wow I like it old school under gravel filter used that 50 + years ago maybe I was getting anxious bacteria and never knew it.

Ok so I mentioned in a previous video I have 5 tanks with slow moving plenums. 4 have next to no nitrates. The 5th one however is a 75 gal with larger fish and so higher fish food load. I have always had problems with nitrates in that tank. I can't use plants in the tank because they decimate them. I do however, have a few emmersive plants on the back of the tank which are doing fine. Prior to adding the plenum I used a bcb bag in the canister filter and could really not see any change in nitrates. Now i was using the api test kit and i can't tell the difference between 40 and 80ppm. I since have purchased a hannah nitrate tester for more accurate results. So after adding the plenum to this tank and using the hanna I have found the nitrates to be 50-60ppm on weekly testing. So not sure how much the plenum has made a difference because i did not have the hanna before the plenum. But it seems to be holding there, with exception of last week which was at 45ppm. I did a decent job with the plenum however I found out after the gravel size I used which was pea gravel was too large. It needs to be 1-3mm for best results. Not sure if that means my tank can't be as effecient but my nitrates are definietly not at zero. The plenum has been running for 6mo. At this point I am probably not going to redo the substrate. I may experiment will an overhead sump and bcb baskets.

Here in central Florida we have bacteria that produce H2S rotten egg smell in anoxic conditions. I hope you don't get those.

Thank you Bentley!!!!

I've always found this concept interesting. We know for a fact, it's a process that occurs in nature. There's far to much pier reviewed literature to doubt it. However, Getting it to work in a small volume of sediment is a mixed bag. I've tried sand beds (with and without plenums) and 'BSB's' in planted tanks with only anecdotal hints it may have worked. I mostly thought it was a fun exercise because I had extra space in my sump tank, and I figured why not put something like this in an empty chamber and then grow duckweed floating above it for nutrient reduction and reduce my water change frequency. Yet, proving any denitrification took place is another matter all together. But, I never had it in isolation, and could never tell if it was the anoxic zone, the duckweed, or the abundance of other plants in the display uptalking it. All I knew is that I layered multiple things to develop a strong system over all. Much like in nature where theoretically any slow moving body of water can easily exhibit an anoxic zone in the sediment layer along side any macrophytes or aquatic plants, and it will also likely have a riparian zone. I wanted to mimic that. So long as there is sufficient secondary macro nutrients in the substrate, they should eventually establish (90-120-ish day seems to be a general recommendation). The question is: how much of an area are facultative anaerobes actually occupying, that are actually using an anoxic pathway? If they have to much O2, they don't denitrify. The sweet spot is the layer of sediment where free O2 has been used up, but they still have oxygen containing compounds to reduce for an electron carrier (things like NO2- & NO3-). Once you pass that sweet spot and they run out of things to reduce, they they go full anaerobic. One tip I can lend is that you can detect the optimal range by putting a OPR probe in the plenum. It may not be a nutrient related issue you're having, they may just be getting to much oxygen. A probe would rule that out. Beyond that, best of luck with your experiment. This one isn't easy to set up.

Sweet i think you will like it. I have anoxic undergravel and i followed Novac's plan to the tee but used kitty litter in the 40G , Turface MVP in the 90 G and a 60G. Going to use Saf-T-Sorb in a 180 G. Running mostly Sumps and one corner matten with a double jetlifter in the 60 G. I never see any Nitrates unless i add liquid to the water column a few times. Lots of plants. I added Laterite to my substrates though because i think that helps with the bacteria in the substrate. If you use a a canister try a BCB basket in the canister that would be cool . I have a BCB in a 20 g with a sponge filter and the Nitrates always at zero for over a year. BCB i made from litty litter. I think that Turface you are using is sucking up all of the Nutrients. Thanks for your updates.

I think your under gravel bubbler is running to many bubbles and introducing to much oxygen.

To much work